These are both Anglophone translations of the true Mandarin and Nihango terms. Most likely the pompom term (hana fusa) did not originate in Tokyo and is a loan word to the national language from another regional language along the dialect train.

The difference between a pompom velvet head and a lionhead and lionchu is that the pompom velvet ball has growth on its nose rather than its head. If fact the lionchu is a tangent in an entirely different direction. This exponent is the subject of another article entirely.

The extent of the nasal septum growth in pompom velvet head vary along different strains and generations of this engineered species.

For brevity the pompom moniker seems to resonate with most observers outside the China Japan proximity. So, for now pompom and velvet ball will be used interchangeably.

It really isn’t that note worthy to point out that the velvet ball pompom is of the fantailed fancy variety. However the focus of pompom is so great that these aspects are viewed as separate categories. And the definition of a new race of gold fish often is in the ad hoc reasoning of the observing group opinion rather than based in scientific fact.

None the less fantailed and velvet head are judged differently as subjects of different breeding standards. But it is important to remember that pompom are a man made mutation of the fantailed family.

Some pompom have growth that grown downward into what pervasive European American culture refers to affectionately as a fumanchu.

Some pompom have a dorsal fin, while others do not. When placing these fish with each other or other goldfish it is important to place the ones without a dorsal fin with other gold fish that also do not have a dorsal fin, and visa versa. This ensures the fair distribution of food within the pond or water garden.

The term hana fusa is also used for a sub variant of pompom called white pompom oranda. This leaves the English word pompom (often pronounced ‘pompon’ when used in reference to this fish), as the lingua franca language choice term for the standard of velvet ball world wide, before sub variety standards are taking under consideration.

Velvet ball records go back as far as 1898 in China. Pompon records in Europe date directly to 1936 when the fish were first displayed in fresh water aquariums as well as ponds in Europe around France and England.

Velvet ball pompom gold fish do have an interesting standard to look at. I am sure they find it peculiar looking at us outside the water, each time they swim up to eat the food bits we’ve dropped in the pond for them from on age of America into the next.

Although goldfish originate from the gibel carp of China, and genetic studies have been done on miniature carp off St Croix since they are similar to the original gold variant of the gibel; the wakin have been kept and raised in Japan for 500 years.

The popularity behind these fish is that when they are regularly fed they swim up to you at feeding time.

Wakin goldfish have a similar shape as the comet variety. Even though the bodies are slender, the tail is shaped differently.

Wakins can grow very long. The biggest on record is nearly eighteen inches in length. This kind of length is only found in well kept pond dwelling wakin.

In winter if your pond gets iced over, remember to cut something of a fishing whole in the ice. This hole is for oxygenation, and gas exchange.

With simple care like that, wakin have no trouble surviving the winter.

Wakin are not hibernators. Part of the neatness of having them in winter is that if the ice is clear enough youll be able to watch then swimming about the outdoor pond or water garden all winter long.

Anubias, Crinum, Elodea and Java moss are good cold water choices for plants that will have a healthy gas exchange in the water with wakin.

The Java Moss is the best for wakin fry to hide out until they mature. For this breeding purpose java moss is really beneficial.

Only match wakin with fast swimming fish. Otherwise the wakin will starve out the slower fish.

Popular misnaming has confused it with Cabomba Aquaticas nick name of Fanwart. Its true name comes from the theist support of Darwin, The Renowned Asa Gray: Cabomba Caroliniana A. (Asa) Gray is the comprehensive categorical scientific name.

The Green fanned leaves are beautiful to look at floating in the water. This adds to the appeal of the genus as a whole. The red variety (which) is a different species in the genus is the hardest to keep alive. It is far less hardy than the Green Cabomba Caroliniana (Fanwart) A. Gray species.

Knowing which sort (species or cultivar) of cabomba one is going to grow is important. Even within the boarders of the United States a cabomba that is natural to one region, has to be painstakingly removed from another. And invasive cabomba break apart easily in low water turbulence without a very controlled CO₂ input.This Green Cabomba genus variety species is known for growing at a rate of one inch per day.

Focusing in on the Caroliniana (Fanwart) species/cultivar of Cabomba is in order. This is due to the fact that Cabomba Caroliniana is more popular than purple cabomba, Cabomba Aquatica (true fanwart), Cabomba Frucata Shultes (Red Cabomba) with are among other species and species cultivars that are Cabomba Carolinianas genus mates.

In order to simply for the most common terms for people who are learning more about the submerged plant this article refers to the plant in the common terms of Cabomba Caroliniana Fanwart, Cabomba Fanwart, and Caroliniana Fanwart, to keep the search terms easy for the reader to find, even though these misnomers are inaccurate yet popular.

The Cabomba Caroliniana Fanwart (A. Gray) is native to the South East of North America. It is very popular among fresh water fish tank enthusiasts, who understand that the plant needs higher levels of CO₂, and very low pressure in order to not propagate by breaking into fragile parts, which clog up many tank mechanisms. These aquarists like the look, and the fact that it is beneficial to there fish.

The second largest group of hobby enthusiasts who have added much to the A. Gray species of the Cabomba genus are water gardeners. In the South West United States it is easy and safe for water gardeners to add this robust species to their water gardening project.

Caring for a species that propagates so well is the water gardeners first concern. Fish like to rest in, and snack on this species, which causes pieces to be broken off: Water CO₂ levels are hard to control in larger ponds which allows the stems to be weaker and break off easier in less turbulent water: Any sort of pond equipment pressure also causes the Cabomba Coroliniana Fanwart (A. Gray) to come apart: All of these contribute to the pieces settling to other parts of the pond, or where to pond water is pumped to and colonizing the new location.

In the Pacific North West especially, and including anywhere outside the South Western United States the Caroliniana Fanwart A. (Asa) Gray species and its cultivars of the Cabomba genus are known to be highly invasive, and should not be placed in a water garden larger than a pond pot.

If they are in a pot pond, the caretaker water gardener should be very careful under all circumstances exactly how the bits of this species of Cabomba are disposed of. It is important to be sure that little bits dont get washed into the sewer, or into any other water way. Disposing of the water in a raingarden filtration system or regular dirt garden is second only to being sure the pieces make it into the trash can, or compost recycling.

A more than normal amount of the species in this Cabomba genus are named after the influential botanists of the time who are credited with discovering them: Primarily the Asa Gray, Julius Hermann Shultes, and Norman C. Fassett.

Cabomba genus prefers water temperatures ranging from 18°-32°C (64.4 º F -25.6º F).

Healthy light should be at 1.5 to 3 watts a gallon in a pot or tank.

CO₂ injections make green Cabomba Caroliniana Fanwart (A. Gray) less prone to break off since it creates a sturdier spine and leaf structure.

Holding to zone 5 which is mostly Des Moines, Iowa Illinois; Columbia, Missouri; and Mansfield Pennsylvania specifically if the Green Cabomba species is going into a large pond or water garden is the responsible water gardeners limitation.

The leaves of the Gunnera manicata Giant Prickly Rhubarb are very similar in shape and visual composition to that of the delicious true Rhubarb.This is where the similarity comes to a casual end for the colloquially as well as science savvy water gardener.

It would be great if we could eat them. Their size eventually grows so huge that you can literally hide in it. The Giant Prickly Rhubarb nick name of Gunnera Manicata reminds one of the fictional plants meant to feed the world in the storyline from 10,000 Leagues Under The Sea.That is how impressively huge these inedible plants grow to in a very short time.

The Manicata cultivar of the Gunnera species is one of the largest water garden shoreline plants. They grow best right at the edge of the water, or in bog gardens.

This does not exclude planting them successfully in rain gardens, or even less moist soil. But, in or near a water garden, or bog garden the plant genus and cultivar is pretty much maintenance free.

Many larger water gardens incorporate this cultivar and species as a matter of course.

Planting the Giant Prickly Rhubarb in direct sunlight, or slight shade both work well for the plant, the garden, and the gardener.

Planting in the shade can add color and texture often lost against the glare of the sun in some water gardens.

Planting in the sunlight provides a large amount of shade over the waters edge for water fowl, aquatic life, and other plants.

The leaves of Gunnera manicata or Giant Prickly Rhubarb as well as its distinct unfamiliar flower are what make most water gardeners, and bog gardeners have to incorporate this amazing looking plant.

The spiked stem stalks (called petiole) that support the leaves are thick hearty tubes that rise to support giant rough jagged edged heavily spined leaf heads who’s bright green covering can span up to 6 ft (2m) in diameter, and a leap year (4 yrs) in can grow up to 10 ft (3m) and spread across a 16 ft (5m) area. This is about the time that plant can no longer wait to be divided. The petiole are also home to many beneficial bacteria.

Some growers and care takers say that if the plant becomes injured wrapping the tuber in medicinal charcoal helps the plants healing process. So, far this has not been scientifically tested to be accurate. Prevention means keeping slugs and snails away; and cutting off dried leaves in the summer time.

The best time of year to divide Gunnera manicata is in the spring, or after the summer in fall. However, fall is more a time for the seeds of the plant to be harvested and cultivated for the next year.

The seed needs to be stored in a cold shelter container in a compost based from loam.

Over the winter Gunnera manicata Giant Prickly Rhubarb can handle temperatures dipping to 5º F (-15º C) if they are lightly sheltered from wind chill, and cold frost. For the most part Gunnera manicata are frost hearty and can do well down to down to 0º F (-17º C).

The seeds come from multiple exotic green five foot flower spikes that are themselves covered in spikes that are covered in orange tiny flowers. This flower seed producing spike is most easily described as being the shape of a bottle bush used in domestic dish washing. But the flower spike is much more easy on the eye than that description gives it credit for.

The Giant Prickly Rhubarb more effectively know as Gunnera Manicata and Mamutblatt (mammoth sheet) is from the Andes low lands of South America, but this nearly largest of the herbaceous plants is suited best for zones 5-10 of North America within the United States.

The scientific name for aquatic hornwort is not coontail. Hortwort gets the coontail nick name though because one of the species in this genus has hair-like spins that become dense as the stem tapers upward to and end.

Hornwort grows and lives as a free floater in fresh water bodies around the world. Hornwort of coons tail variety also attaches to the ground loosely. So, in a pond this plant can be potted, fixed to the pond bottom, or left a drift.

The most noted species in the aquatic Hornwort annotation of being part of the Ceratophyllaceae family are:

• Species Ceratophyllum demersum L. coon’s tail
• Species Ceratophyllum echinatum A. Gray spineless hornwort
• Species Ceratophyllum muricatum Cham. prickly hornwort
• Subspecies Ceratophyllum muricatum Cham. ssp. australe (Griseb.) D.H. Les prickly hornwort
• Species Ceratophyllum submersum L.

Demersum L. or coons tail is the species scientific name for the plant visually attributed to tank aquariums. And this is the first plant that water gardeners look for when starting to search for what they ultimately will foster into their water garden when considering Hornwort as a candidate aesthetic.

The foliage of the Hornwort demersum l. coons tail is porous and grows the fastest during summer. This perennial will loose bits that will wither on the pond bottom, and repopulate the pond the next year as the bits that broke off and settled take to the soil.

The texture of the foliage is very thin, defined officially as fine. The plant grows from multiple spines producing gray to green foliage, blue flowers, and white seeds.

It doesn’t matter if the soil in your water garden is fine, course, or medium textured if the ph is right, and the stems per acre are less than 7000, than this plant can take well, spread fast growing up to 11 ft. in a season. Moderate pruning may be necessary depending on the look the water garden is designed for, and the amount of shade cover needed by the aquatic life the water gardener has decided to support due to aesthetic, habitat, or selection in zones 4 11.

In zone 4 of Iowa, retrieving a piece of horwort genus is easy to do in any lake or water way, such as a stream. If the plant is exposed above the water line, in windy conditions if could have insects caught or living in it that don’t need to be transferred to your pond at home, or in to your tank if you have both.

In a water garden pond Hornwort will give smaller fry a place to hide, as older fish a highly oxygenated hidden place to rear their young. Heavy pruning prior to fall with help the plants per acre be tuned way down since Horwort coons tail only grow in spring and summer.

When we think of sophistication, nothing can be more straight forward than a stroll through a Japanese garden, not merely for the beauty that we can feel surging all around us, but the inherent knowledge these surroundings bring to our souls, in a unique experience that was built to cleverly achieve a cathartic moment at every curve of its path.

By suggesting a landscape through metaphoric language, the Japanese garden can depict famous natural scenes, evoking a particular artistic quality or atmosphere, be it through a Zen moment of gravel courtyards or a Buddhist enchantment of falls and flowers.

Extravagance, aristocracy and spirituality blend throughout the history of the Japanese gardens, and from them, an art form all its own was born, one that can be clearly understood, through photos and illustrations of garden layouts and single scenes.

Michiko and David Young are a couple that delve into the fascinating realm of Japanese Art, Architecture and Culture with creative passion.

While Michiko conducts tours of Japan for those looking to think outside of the box, David Young is a well known writer that puts into words, what most can only express through tears or laughter.

After teaming up with Tan Hong Yew, from Kuala Lumpur College of Art in Malaysia, Davids words, Michikos knowledge, insight and love for her own heritage, are superbly enhanced by his masterpiece illustrations, reverberating in the hearts imagination, all that which inspires the team itself, to do what they love most.

So dedicated are these three, that this book won the American Horticulture Society Book Award of 2006 and has brought change and uplifting insight to all those who take the time to flip through its pages with an open mind.

This 176-page hardcover, with 250 full-color photos and 50 watercolors, was written by couple David and Michiko Young, illustrated by Tan Hong Yew, was first published by Tuttle in September of 2005, measuring 11.1 x 8.6 x 0.8 and shipping at 2.5 pounds.

By detailing and discussing some of the most famous works of the Japanese water garden as well as the art and culture therein attached, The Art of Japanese Gardens takes the reader into the hearts and minds of each and every artist, with a subtle blend between words, photographs and illustrations that provoke the precious experiences originally intended by each artist of this timeless art of Japanese expression through gardening.

Related Book:
Art of Japanese Architecture – by David Young and Michiko Young.

Four leaf clover can be planted in a small pot and left on the water gardening shelf. Doing this in three to four inches of water will add an interesting visual display. Water clover will survive this way to a temperature low of 20 º Fahrenheit or -6.67 º Celsius.

Water Clover is a good form of shade for the fish you are gardening for. This is because it floats above the surface tension like pond lillies.

Four leaf clover-marsilea Mutica-banded nardoo float above algae starving algae out of sunlight. Water clover beats algae to nutrients since it has a more efficient system to absorb nutrients.

Marsilea Mutica sprouts can be planted directly in submerged soil at the water gardening edge to blend the look of the yard gracefully into the aquascape. Many gardening additions have sprouts set in loose stone crevices. The roots of the clover find their way into the soil below the water; then pop off shortly into patches of soil affixed surface floating water clover. At night the water clover aquatically planted Marsilea Mutica will fold up. This is something that Marsilea Mutica doesn’t overtly do in mass on land.

The Mutica species (1 in 170) of the Marsilea (clover) genussets well in water gardens world wide, except for extremely cold ice locked regions, or extremely dry desert areas. In temperate and tropical regions Mutica can be settled into water gardened life well in time for St. Patricks Day.

Cyperus are water garden pond grass-like herbs. The clump that fans out into the perennial sadge banquette popularly considered the rich variable look of the species and cultivars of reaches out from each base rhizome.

Each flower of the cultivars in the species that make up the Cyperus genus have erupted from seed heads. This exposure of the flower a top the somewhat relatively triangular stem happens after green seed heads have turned brown then erupted with the imaging flower.

However, uniform the species making up genus Cyperus are; the appearance of these flower heads adds a distinctive look to the aesthetic of water garden on an individual basis. That is to say, one cultivars flower head is vastly distinctive from another cultivar wither the plant is inter or extra species correlative.

Cyperus has a proud history serving the needs of mankind. Cyperus is the hosting genus that Papyrus is a species of. A good majority of all human knowledge has been recorded on paper made from the cultivars of Cyperus Papyrus.

Cyperus is native to North America, and is well known in history as Yellow Nut Grass.

The tubers of this genus act as storage for food and nutrients.

The water plants that make up the Cyperus genus are predominantly tropical. The zones this genus thrives best in are 4-11. Many of this cultivars within the several species of Cyperus genus are limited to hardy life in zones 7, or 8 11 respectively.

The extremely popular species along the Cyperus Genus bell curve are:

Cyperus Alternifolius (formerly known as Involucratus [this term is dead to science-but still in popular use in the professional folk trade and breeding arts Timber Press @ 2008: Pocket Water Guide to Water Garden Plants by Greg Speichert and Sue Speichart page 105 paragraph 4. Sue and Greg are also co-author of the popular Encyclopedia of Water Garden Plants. Although the link lists Ann Lovejoy who wrote the forward.]), Standard Umbrella Grass; Longus, Hardy Umbrella Grass, Sweet Galingale; Giganteus, Mexican Papyrus; Prolifer, Dwarf Papyrus; Rotundus, Purple Nut Sedge; Papyrus; and 594 others….

Cyperus Rotundus is extremely invasive and should be avoided as a useful water garden plant entirely. People ignoring the fact that rotundus are illegal for a reason and still place them in a water garden has led to serious environmental threats to the biodiversity of entire regions.

Cyperus Flavescens and Esculentus species cultivars can cause extreme allergic reactions in humans. Cyperus usually grows well out of range from the normal human habitat. The reason there is a warning against adding these to a water garden is because people have and been hurt.

While the smaller cultivars are treasured pond pot and table top plants, and still others are preferred as water filtration marginals: The larger species and cultivars are excellent tropical water garden center pieces to build a garden theme around.

It is very important to fertilize the plants of the Cyperus genus on a continual monthly basis to ensure the continued health of the plant and the whole water garden.

The tropical cultivars should be kept indoors in winter areas. This is the time when tropical species of the Cyperus genus are susceptible to infection from insects. However, avid care for the Cyperus genus over winter will ensure a very diversified water garden in the American spring when butterflies and other interesting insects return to take advantage of your returning water garden.

Two Iris species are popularly known by insiders and sport hobbyists within the water gardening set as the best water filtration species. The cultivars of these species each have something different to offer a filtration setting.

The Iris genus is a strongly pest free marginal. It is also important to note that there are 850 species and over 11,396 plus cultivars. This is a short and sweet overview that is not meant to be comprehensive. Many listed cultivars are actually species as well. Not only are new species, sub species, and cultivars invented or discovered every year; but labeling and relabeling is an on going task. For this to be complete breeders should meticulously record the process of how the new cultivar or stabilized species has been bred.

There are many sub genus within the ranks of the species that are collectively the Iris genus. The well known sub genus are Hermodactyloides, Iris, Limniris, Nepalensis, Scorpiris, Xiphium.

In the Future Louisiana may be added to the sub genus list, as well as other species with cultivars that are groups of sub cultivars.

The stems that are usually under ground and in some species under water are called rhizomes.

The Iris is a world renowned icon. They speak to the sentimental core of even the most rigid human heart.

The Iris genus grows best in full sunlight. And they companion well with other filter plants.

Water at the gardens edge should not be more than a few inches over the crown. However, water can be covering the cultivars and species of the Iris genus year round.

Clay soil works best from a wide PH range.

The Iris genus species and cultivars are not able to survive in salt water at all.

The Iris genus is at its peak in 18 º Celsius which is 65 º Fahrenheit.

Enough cross breeding has gone into the Iris genus that the results over time are astounding. But the care the goes into each species and its numerous cultivars is somewhat uniform.

In the spring cultivars that are potted should be brought up to the surface leaving the crown under water. The warm water will help kick start the life cycle of the plant cultivar in this genus.

In the summer to promote fertilization and pollination, pull back the dead plant material, and dried flowers. 18 º Celsius which is 65 º Fahrenheit is the goal temperature needed in the pool before fertilization should begin; then continue on a monthly basis until the species dies back.

During the fall discontinue fertilizing a month before the last frost free days set in. And if the water garden is not in a cold state; then stop when the flowers are no longer budding.

At the beginning of winter the water garden variety cultivars of this genus needs to be submerged in the water garden at a depth that does not freeze.

In order for them to grow well the following spring be sure to submerge them in a shallow wide pot: That is at least one foot (30cm) in diameter. This keeps the plant from popping out of the pot too easily when it grows next season. The rhizome needs to be sitting over a thin layer of dirt. The rhizome should be placed to the side of the pot with the tip pointing inward, and slightly covered in more soil.

The time of year a plant in the species grouping of the Iris genus will or will not bloom varies greatly from one cultivar to another even within the respective species. Although some cultivars in a given species group will bloom all at the same time of year in some specially grouped cultivars.

Iris Water species are: Fulva, Laevigata, Louisiana, Versicolor, Virginica, and Anguifuga. Iris species that like to be very wet, but still work best with soil, but then like to be dried out are: Ensata, Siberian.

Iris species for both wet soil and water are: Regelia, Tall Bearded, Rebloomer, Abbeville Reds, Other Numerous Stabilized hybrid species and their cultivars, Peggy Mac, Brevicaulis, Giganticaerulea, Hexagona, Tet tetraploidy a.k.a. The Professors, and Nelsonii.The species with question marks are also thought of as subspecies of the Louisiana species, of which Fulva is the most controversial. We will briefly touch on that further on.

Some of the more popular cultivars in the Ensata a.k.a. Kaempferi (Japan Iris) species are: Crown Imperial, Dark Lightning, Dragon Mane, Edged Delight, Epimethius, Espata, Fond Kiss, Frosted Plum, Hue and Cry, Muffington, Peak of Pink, Pinkerton, Pooh Bah, Rafferty, Rose Water, Ruby Star, Sapphire Crown, Shinto Rings, Silver Band, Southern Son, and Variegatus.

A very short list (VSL) of popular cultivars in the Tall Bearded species are: Galactic Warrior, (Sub species Rebloomer cultivars VSL: Come What May, Coral Strand, Shebas Queen Et., al. etc.), Dwarf, Variegatus, and many more….

About a month after the Tall Bearded species have bloomed and its Sub species Red Bloomer have first bloomed; the Louisiana cultivars take their turn to spread their pedals in the light. These majorly popular cultivars are: Bayou Blue Bird, Red Echo, Idle Gossip, Bayou Dawn, Voodoo Queen, Cajun Angel, Jeri great white hope, (Louisiana Sub species Peggy Mac and cultivars, Louisiana Sub Species Iris nelsonii and cultivars), Abbeville Reds, Caragonia, Dixie Deb, Elizabeth the Queen. Fulva is also part of the Louisiana speciel family colloquially. Fulva is one of the five main sub species of Louisiana species of the Iris genus. Even some printed material removes Fulva from the Louisiana line. Instead listing it apart as a species in the Iris genus unto itself when it is not totally clear how diverged the plant group is from its common association with the Louisiana species.

Copper Iris, Red Flag are popular terms for Fulva: Some of the popular cultivars of this sub species of the Louisiana species in the Iris genus are: Iris Louisiana Fulva Laevigata (not to be confused with the plant it is named after which is the main Iris Laevigata species); Marvel Gold; Butterscotch; Bayou Bandit, and Ker-gawl among others.

Many references cite Fulva as both a solitary species in the Iris genus, and one of the main five (out of man others) subspecies of Louisiana species.

There are the ten tetrapoidy professors species stock developed in 1964; that were further bred into ‘Bozo,’ ‘Decoy,’ ‘Godzilla,’ ‘King Kong,’ ‘Sauterne,’ and ‘Wine Cooler cultivars of historical note, as well as others that have become popular due to the creativity expressed in their creation within the genre of the non diploidic sub races of the Iris Genus form the mankind mutated version of the Louisiana specie. These are by far the most interesting of the Iris genus cultivars instantly mutated via harsh chemicals into species with additional chromosomes: As invented by Professor Mertzweiller and his tenassistant professors: Then further defined by the super hero like cultivar mutant in carnations of Durio, Norris and Raabe respectively from these ten professor species that were forced to evolve from Louisiana cultivarsunder chemical duress.

To make this clearer some think-tanks list the five main sub species of Louisiana in the Iris genus as Fulva, Brevicaulis, Giganticaerulea Hexagona, and Nelsonii.

This seems to be for brevity since there are many more popular subspecies like Peggy Mac.

Although the popular market may hold on to the Louisiana Iris cultural iconic label unless there is a common genetic reason for the label rather than a world wide respected almost hollowed cultural reason for the labels continued use in the fan fair of Iris genus enthusiasts and professional breeders hard science may need to let the term die off in the technical realm for the sake of scientific clarity. Or accept that with Iris and many other water garden plant genus; there are species and sub species, then cultivars. Or what has been considered a cultivar is discovered to actually a species. And have a mode in place that accurately denotes these additions when the human induced or even natural evolution of these cultivars exposes them as species within species. If our definitions are not definitive then they must evolve as a technology to remain scientific rather than nostalgic.

The Iris genus Laevigata (rabbit ear) species from Asia historically that are the most talked about cultivars are: Variegata, Variegata Alba, Violet Parasol, Albopurpurea, Colchesterensis, Midnight Wine, Monstrosa, Mottled Beauty, Regal, Royal Cart Wheel, Semperflorens, and Snow Drift.

The cultivars of the–native North America Versicolor species ranging from upper Canada down to Texas and over to the Mississippi, (commonly referred to as Beet Root Iris & Blue Flag), that are most often cited for their light blue flowers in spring are: Between The Lines, Candystriper, Little Rhyme, Mint Fresh, Mysterious Monique, Party Line, Pink Peaks, and Shape Up.

In the same habitat zone as the Versicolor Blue Flag; the some what taller and more drought tolerant Iris genus Virginica species carries the same common name and this species most well documented and popular cultivars are: Contraband Girl, Dotties Double, Pond Crown Point, and Pond Lilac Dream.

Iris genus Pseudacorusis note worthy due to the fact that all water gardeners need to be careful where they are planted. The species and its cultivars are invasive. Planting them were the seeds can spread to other water ways is an irresponsible water gardening practice. If they are planted the water garden flow must be under complete segregation and control of the water gardener. This species is not suggested for novice gardeners for this reason. In many states this species and its cultivars are illegal.

Read the Encyclopedia of Water Garden Plants, it’s the best book on the subject to own and make reference to over the years…

John Wilkes author of Flowforms: The Rhythmic Power of Water patented his first Flowform water sculpture over 30 years ago, his book is a cherished “read” and coffee table book for those of us who love and are inspired by water. To celebrate flowforms you must recognize natural artist, John Wilkes.

These small to large cascading, vortex fountains softly bubble water into leaf like portions that blend graciously with the flowered life of a water garden. The flowing water swirls in each bowl, then moves down to the next. The swirling activity oxygenates and refreshes water naturally. Beneficial nitrate eating bacteria make an invisible film on the surface of the concrete to freshen stagnant water as it passes by. Even if a vortex is made of PVC plastic helpful bacteria will also make their home on it’s surface. Flow form vortexes are being uses in poor communities to filter water when nearby streams and rivers have become polluted.

The sculpted image of an over sized flower, that is only slightly over sized in order to attract momentary attention from the human observer or drinking animal, is understated in tall or surrounding foliage; and by the water that accents it by rippling above it alcoves, and into the liquid whole. A whole that the pieces then are accents of.

The flowforms can come in several earth tones that run from a brick red, to sand pot browns and can be purchased online. How about making your own by sculpting in concrete and pigment to color?

John Wilkes describes his sevenfold flowform cascade – Youtube.com

Flowforms add a whole new feel to cascade of water flow.

Most flowforms are cast from granite, and some are designed to push water off in figure eights after the flow leaves the form and is blending its pressure with the rest of the immediate water garden.

The Flow Form models focus on the natural, water already has current in living water bodies. Flowforms lift these ideas to the surface so that they can be naturally enjoyed both above and below the dimensions of the surface tension. You can sometimes observe forms of water on the beach, as the tide rolls in and pulls sand back out in the shape of a heart. Flowforms reside in nature and inspired, creative water feature art.

Some of the American common names for Licorice Acorus Gramineus include grassy-leaves sweet flag, Japanese sweet flag, as well as Japanese rush, among others.

These names are synonymous with industry related inaccuracy for technical specificity. The terms are used loosely for any member of the Gramineus species. So, without knowing it these terms really represent Gramineus species except for Golden Pheasant; or the Acorus genus as a whole.

The Licorice cultivar of the Gramineus species in the Acorus genus is best when the plant is in direct sunlight. The caveat is that this Acorus Gramineus Licorice plant can tolerate a lite amount of shade.

The ideal planting depth for Licorice is in 1 inch (30cm) of water.

Each pale flower & dark green leaf patch grows a foot high and a foot in diameter on average.

In smaller pot ponds the Acorus Gramineus Licorice shouldn’t be over watered.

Licorice, Acorus Gramineus can still have robust leaves in some winter climates. The climate zones for Licorice, Acorus Gramineus are zones 5 10 according to the United States Department of Agriculture.

• Zone 5a can go as low as -28 º Celsius or -20 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 5b reaches down to -26 º Celsius or -15 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 6a sustains Licorice down to -23 º Celsius or -10 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 6b: -20 and a half º Celsius or -5 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 7a runs down to -17 º Celsius (nearly -18 plus 3 tenths), or 0 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 7b climbs up a few degrees as its Acorus Gramineus Licorice Low temperature at 14.9 º Celsius which is 5º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 8a has a low temp for the Licorice Cultivar at -12.2 º Celsius, which is 10 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 8b sustains Licorice Cultivar at -9.4 º Celsius, 15 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 9a rises 2.8 degrees for a sustainable low temperature of º -6.6º Celsius, which is 20 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 9b makes another 2.8 degree jump base temperature tolerance which brings the tolerable low up to -3.8 º Celsius, 25 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 10a is the beginning of the conclusion of tolerable temperature zones for the Licorice, Acorus Gramineus according to the United States Department of Agriculture. The low temperature of Licorice, Acorus Gramineus for this zone is -1.1 ºCelsius, which is 30 º Fahrenheit.
• Zone 10b is the last tolerable zone according to the USDA. The low temperature for this zone is 1.7 º Celsius, which is 35 º Fahrenheit.

Crushed or bruised this Acorus Genus, Gramineus specie cultivar gives off a lush licorice scent. Mashing a small bit for a guest to smell in the back ground while socializing by or in the water garden environment is a great way to refresh the daily life of your friends and acquaintances on occasion when they visit your home based water garden.

For filtration purposes the Acorus Calamus Variegatus companions well with species in the Iris genus such as versicolor cultivars and virginica cultivars.

Acorus Americanus; Acorus Gramineus Yodo-no-yuki [ever green]; Iris (Blue Flag, the bulk common term for all iris genus cultivars of the versicolor species) Versicolor [Herb]; broad leaf ( Typha genus latifolia species) [Herb]; and narrow leaf (typha genus anustifolia species) [Herb]: All work well together as companion plants that filter ponds and water gardens very well.

The Yodo-no-yuki cultivar will add a subtle variegated yellow cream tint that is barely visible in the hue of this filterers light green spears.

This set of water filtering companions grow best in temperatures no lower than 40º Fahrenheit, in as direct sunlight as possible. Shade will not hurt this combination, sunlight just fares the filtering companions better. Theyare also great bog garden filterers also.

Some of the other most recommended filter plants listed by genus then species for ponds are Cyperus alternifolius; Eichhornia crassipes; Glyceria maxima Variegata; Juncus Afro, and Effuses cultivar (variables), Ludwigia arcuta Grandflora, and puruviana; Mentha aquatica; Oenanthe javanica Flamingo; Pistia stratiotes Aqua Velvet; Sagittaria latifolia; Scirpus; as well as those mentioned earlier in this entry.

Many water gardens have bog gardens near by. This is intentionally done so that the dense root system of the bog garden will filtrate both the bog and water garden naturally.

The addition of a pump with a rain garden or bog garden will make the plants in each will create a very effective filtration system.

For stand alone water gardens that are constructed to naturally slow drain back into the earth via a filter directly the plants mentioned and listed above are an excellent way to cut down on algae. The most affective use of these plants happens when they are in the path of flowing water so if you are running flow hoses have them filter threw the bog and back into the pond or water garden. Create a natural filtration system!

This hearty goldfish almost shines in many colors like the legend of Josephs Electric Technicolor Dream Coat. The fantastic nymph goldfish bedazzles the human eye.

This Nymph goldfish is great in outdoor ponds. The real task is protecting them from other animals that will happen upon your water garden and note its location as a food source.

This fancy goldfish has a trimmer body than other fancies. It is important to not mix it in with the slower swimmers in the goldfish variety plethora. It will get to the food quicker, and starve out the other slower fish.

Giving the Nymph Goldfish plenty of water to swim in is important. Even outdoor ponds need at least ten gallons of water to begin to make there interesting animals viable.

Nymph Goldfish are usually available in sizes of eight to twelve cm from the mouth to the single caudal fin tail.

After the first carp were sectioned off in the rice patch ponds these resulting bronze colored goldfish were the first to show signs of coloration.

It is the innovation inherent in the curiosity of the human mind that wondered about selecting for color tendencies in this plain bronze scale exterior.

Some sat staring into the water at these bronze comets for a very long time.

The inherent I wonder what would happen if that comes natural to childhood boredom, and the fact that at those ages we have a lot of time on our hands had to result in the research eureka that lead to adult experimentation those ten to twenty centuries ago.

The Bronze Comet will last in nearly any temperature, as long as the water doesn’t freeze, and they have an adequate place to hide from predators. They also do very well indoors in fish tanks.

They will out eat the fancy varieties. So, only host them with other hearty koi, or goldfish.

This is admittedly neat to look at once the symmetrical artistic epiphany is achieved through inbreeding recipes, and variety specific bloodlines that have already been created. Often this careful inbreeding is maintained so that the mutation from inbreeding remains balanced in favor of the traits that are desirable.

In Japan this goldfish is call suihogan.

The bubble eye has been bred to have twin caudal fins, and no dorsal fin. There is a caveat to the dorsal fin. This caveat is relative to where you are personally from. Various breeding artists in China have selected for bubble eye with a dorsal fin. This variety has not yet become popular in the western world.

In the USA the competitive judging process of the Gold Fish Society of America disqualifies any bubble eyed gold fish with any indication of even a bump where the dorsal fin could be.

It is conceivable that through a long process of severe selection and breeding that one could develop a bubble eye like goldfish with a dorsal fin outside of China. But this is not the artistic epiphany associated with the bubble eye as we know it. That goldfish would be called something else like dorsal fin bubble eye, or some other interesting name in some lingua franca; (the proper linguistic term for any Language, Creole, or Pigeon that trade is done in).

The sacs of the bubble eye are the creatures most striking feature to the eyes and fingertips of the human people who observe them. These sacs are filled with liquid. They are extremely delicate. They are the main reason why these fish are tank fish and not suited for most out door ponds, or water gardens.

Only the most strictly maintained water garden can host them if every conceivable rough surface, and abrupt edge is constantly and instantly removed. This is nearly impossible in an outside pond. Tree branches and leaves fall into the water, roots in search of moisture pop up through the bottom of the pond. These are issues that make it impossible for there bubble eye goldfish to maneuver almost completely blind in the water world.

Essentially what these creatures are is a result of breeders selecting for a kind of blindness in goldfish because humans find it visually interesting. That is not a value judgment. It is however, one relative quotient of the whole fact.

The eyes of the Bubble Eye varieties, like the Celestial goldfish point upward. This makes it very hard for them to locate food. They will locate it. But they will loose out on food and starve out if they are placed in with heartier goldfish, and competitive, better adapted, natural fish varieties.

When feeding them pick slowly sinking food. This gives them plenty of time to see it. If they have to feel about for the food a greater risk of popping a sack is introduced.

Do not feed them food that floats. This may seem counter intuitive, but bubble eye goldfish have large stomachs in a relative way. This makes them susceptible to internal constipation and swim bladder discomfort from taking in air while they consume floating food. Completely soaking the food first can help the food not rest above the surface tension of the water.

Feeding bubble eye goldfish with swim bladder discomfort frozen green peas for a few days after a twenty four hour fast is a recommended way to nurse them back to health quickly.

Housing them with other less light dependent goldfish is ideal. Such as the kinds they were originally bred from: Telescope & Celestial goldfish.

Some of the bubble eye coloration is stable: While other color varieties are not as stable.

The black variety for example can loose its tone easily based on how much light it is exposed to. This is also true for the gold toned varieties.

The colors of the Bubble Eye varieties, can span from the previously mentioned rare black, to blue & brown (a.k.a. chocolate), calico, red & black, red, red & white, and gold tones.

If they do puncture a sac it will grow back but not as symmetrical as before.

It is important for these fish to have calm water to swim in. If you have intake and output machines regulating there water way, and nitrate levels at forty parts per million. It is important that the pressures are not too extreme. It is already difficult for these goldfish to swim with the sacks. So, lower pushes and pulls to and from the water system is ideal.

Bubble Eye varieties need to have a minimum of ten gallons of water. Some bigger ones need above fifty-one gallons to thrive.

The ideal temperature for Bubble Eye Goldfish color and fin varieties to live well is relatively warm. They do best in water that is seventy-six to seventy-eight degrees.In extremely clean continuously filtered water temperature can go as high as ninety-two degrees.

This beautiful bubble eye variety is the result of a long process of careful selection for a North American aesthetic.

One of the most popular pearlscale varieties is the Golf Ball goldfish. If the Golf Ball goldfish is put in an outdoor pond then leave them in there alone as a variety. This way they have a good chance at reaching food in the proportion you give it to them in.

The golf ball fish isn’t blind, so putting them in a pond with visually impaired fish would not be worth it. After taking the time to make sure that there are no abrupt edges in the pond at all; the sight impaired fish would simply be out swam to the food by the Golf Balls.

The blind or sight deflected fish maybe better swimmers, but unable to see the food as quickly. Golf Ball Pearlscale goldfish carp will be out swam to food by other fish varieties that can see as good but are made of a better swim design.

Not just golf ball pearlscale, but all perlscale goldfish have cramped internal organs.

For this reason an enthusiast needs to be careful what kind of food they are fed. This care will help them digest food better and live longer.

Feed them dry food flakes of pellets and the food will swell inside the fish causing internal cramping: possibly leading to death. Any food you feed these creatures must be thoroughly soaked before it is fed to them. This means soaking it before it hits the surface of the water. This way the proportion they eat will not expand inside themas it soaks up liquids inside the pearlscale goldfishes digestive track.

Hamanishiki are pearlscale goldfish with head growth. Breeders weed out fry mating the fish for head growth that is in one piece and round.

The non-head growth category of pearlscale goldfish are breed to have a body depth that is no less than 2/3^rd the body length.

For any of these pearlscale variants from Hamanishiki to Golf Ball a minimum of ten gallons of water is needed for an indoor or outdoor pond/ water garden. Much more water is preferred since these fish grow kinda big.

If the fish is injured and looses a scale, a regular scale will replace it.

There is some debate over whether or not the water needs to be calcium enriched to help the actual pearlscales of the fish themselves be stronger, healthier, and less prone to getting knocked free.

Pearscales are majestic and artistically inspiring to look at despite there very Spartan offspring selection process. They come in fascinating colors and make great citizens in city-state water garden ponds next to walk ways and in back yards across America.

The presumed original name for this pot bellied fish is Shu-xing. The name comes from the long revered legend of the God of longevity called Shu-Xing Gong by mankind.

One theory as to the Lionheads early popularity as a desired bred artistic epiphany is the robust belly and its ad hoc or anthropomorpha sized resemblance to the Laughing Buddha: Budai Qieci, Hasne, Louhan, Hotei, Angida as he is referred to depending on which reference point is used.

This depth has been standardized to be over ½ to about 5/8 the length of the Lionhead goldfish body.

Some experts say that these goldfish were bred to mimic the likeness of the artist rendering of the mythical lionhead dog; in order to impress the then Emperor Circa 1500 A.D. or before.

The coloration is rich. There are metallic colors and non metallic colors. Although the color white is for weddings in the United States the Chinese influence over color choices while breeding lionhead goldfish still out vote the non-Chinese native observer. In China white still represents death. For this reason the color is weeded out as a solid color in breed-line choices: Although there is a rare variety with a red cap and white body.

The metallic colors are orange, red, black, blue, and chocolate.

Lionhead iridescent coloration; the colors come paired and in three color combinations:

1. The color pairs are: Red & Black, and Red & White.
2. The trifecta is a combo of: Red x White x Black.
3. The last color combos are best described as Calico.

Lionhead goldfish are considered cute. The final result of breeding is cute, even if natures man made edits along the way have a few misspellings in them due to inbreeding.

These fish are among the fancy variety. The body of the lionhead goldfish is egg-shaped. So, making sure that food is thoroughly soaked, so that it doesn’t expand in their tightly fit digestive system.

This fish is a popular dorsal fin free variety epiphany reached as a desirable breeding aesthetic. Lionhead goldfish can be found for sale easily online, in pet stores, and at superstores across America.

There is no doubt that is artistic breeding statement is interesting to look at in the aquarist tank, or as one of the heartier fancy goldfish that can be in outdoor water gardens in some temperatures.

They have a double caudal fin that is expansive, but still lends to the overall compact look of what is considered the standard for the lionhead goldfish breeding expression currently.The look includes having the caudal fins turn perpendicular to the body where the fins meet the body of the goldfish.

The lionhead growth looks mostly like a section of a raspberry that is actually part of the goldfishes head. Often this distinction is about the creatures face. It is not however, as protrusive as the growth anomalies bred for in Pompom Goldfish.

Depending on the breeding complications in the bloodline the growth may or may not be so extreme as to impede the goldfishes vision.This is the main defining point between various Lionhead sub-varieties. There is also a long finned variety that somewhat uncommon.

This head growth can continue to grow in some breed lines until the fish in no longer able to see around it. This head growth often takes a year to appear. Males also can shed this mane from time to time.

This fish is not a fast swimmer so placing it in with non-light dependent goldfish (blind goldfish), gives this variety and equal chance at reaching the food. These non-light dependent or visually impaired fish are Celestial, Globe Eye, Telescope Eye, Water Bubble Eye, Lionchu, Ranchu goldfish, as-well-as a few others.

Lionhead goldfish can grow up to ten inches, or more. To ensure that they have a chance to get that big matching them to water gardens, front walk ponds, & tanks with fifteen gallons or more is ideal when they are not in an outdoor pond during our cold American winter.

The modern Lionchu is the result of rafflesgold.com. This Thailand based aquarist society did not intent to reinvent the wheel. They bred their goldfish for what seem natural to them with regard to aesthetic desire.

Prior to 2006 lionchu were gaining popularity. This deliberate breeding of lionheads and ranchus was not yet being taken seriously. Judging aquarist societies were not allowing this most evolutionary of creative hobbyist sports to evolve.

It’s not like the breeding of fish is along the lines of the society for creative acronyms: The SCA is known for all its participating expressions to be period to the year 1600 or prior.

In a similar way as doing something SCA Period or not: In modern times the SCA is considered the largest martial arts group in the world. And in some weekend battle events they have been known to draw as many ten thousand combatants pre side. period like creating meed without any modern ingredients or equipment including how the bees are bred and kept: Certain aquarist gold fish societies only began to take Lionchu breeders seriously when it was found out that in 1800 a line of lionchus were in vogue among breeders in Japan. This breed was called shishigashira ranchu. That is lionheaded ranchu to you.

Lionchu Swimming In Tank Video

These shishigashira ranchu actually had bumps on the back of the fish. These bumps were located where the dorsal fin was supposed to be bred out. This to modern shishigashira ranchu breeders is an indicator that the earlier attempts in the 19^th century had not perfected the breeding out of the dorsal fin at the time of their historical record.

Being the Japanaphiles that they are, (not that this is a bad thing, it is however, a thing), Goldfish aquarist societies decided to include the Lionchu in the ranks of what is acceptable breeding. This acceptance wasbased on the discovery of the lionchus historic significance circa period 1800.

Many goldfish breeders do love the lionchus they create: Or continue to encourage onto new generations in optimzed indoor and outdoor water gardens, tanks and summer time ponds across America.

A ryukin is as long and appears fat. Fat in the way that some kinds of strong men are rounded but obviously muscled to the core.

Because of this shape the swim bladder of the fish is prone to infection. Keeping the nitrate level below 20ppm is ideal.

If the fish is upside down, (facing the bottom of the tank, pond, or water garden), or floating about this is a very strong sign that the infection is bad.

The shape of the body as well as the size proportions of the fins make them awesome swimmers, displacing a lot of water for there size as they go. Think wing span of a hawk, verses its body size.

The dorsal fin of the fish makes it look a lot less compact than it would without the genetic feature.

These fish come in rich brown, white, read, green, light green, blue, red (the original ryukin color), red and white combos.

The tails can vary from short, to long.

The calico ryukin have smaller humps that the other varieties.

Other than the caudel fin the other fins about the ryukin’s body configuration is specific. Each set it an even pair: Anal fins, ventral fins, and pectoral fins should all match evenly if this is to be a true competition worthy ryukin.

These fish are great companions of many goldfish varieties, except the very fancy varieties.

To sustain them in a living environment they need roughly twenty gallons of water minimum which outdoor water gardens and ponds usually exceed.

Ammonia is a problem with these fish. If you over crowd them, your tank will die.

Soak fish food before hand so it doesn’t bloat in there systems and seriously hurt them.

Ryukin are interesting fish that bring a tinge of delight to every home made water way they inhabit.

The fantail is the American breed variety for the ryukin bred in Japan. The breeders who created this variety were trying to create ryukin. As a result, the fantail was developed.

The fantail has a long quadruple fin. They can have telescope eyes or what humans consider to be more natural looking eye configuration and development.

Unlike the ryukin the fins around the body of the fantail are not as developed. They also do not have the pronounced hump that the ryukin are known for.

Narcreous and metallic scales are common.

These fish survive best in water that is from 55ºF to 70ºF. That is a comfort range 13ºC to 21ºC.

Fantails are often orange, red, chocolate (same call it bronze), and calico in coloration.

To arrive at this selected for artistic epiphany goldfish in the fantail line are produced in large numbers ranging into the hundreds if not more to find a breed pair among several generations. This often means breeding grand parents with grand children or other such combination to avoid unwanted features from continuing to manifest in the bloodline. This included the unique take on the egg like roundness of what is now commonly seen as a well bred fantail goldfish.

These fantail goldfish are considered part of the fancy goldfish breeding tradition.

Japanese breeder think tanks discovered, through research and experimentation, this ranchu breed devised from the various lionhead goldfish variety stocks.

The descending arch of the ranchu is more pronounced than most other goldfish varieties and types.

This downward arch is definitely more pounced than the origin stocks or any of the lionhead breeds.

They remind you of shoulder muscles being flexed by children in the mirror to imitate body builders posing with dynamic tension.

Some of the other features that set these ranchu apart are that they have short tails, and a stomach area that takes up 5/8^th to 3/4^th of the fish.

They are more egg shaped than not. And they looked like a very bulked up body building version of the otherwise sleek goldfish.

This bulky look is also visually an effect of the fish simply not having a dorsal fin.

Ranchu look like the bald muscled version of this fish. It might be one of the reasons why the collective Japanese breeding eye sees them as the King of goldfish.

Most ranchu come in orange, black and gray.

And indeed they look like the sumo of goldfish.

In fact the bramble heads on the head of the ranchu support this likeness well beyond that of an aquarist writers initial assumptions.

Many people the world over see this same correlation.

The bramble-heads remind many breeders and breeding societies world wide of the funny hairdos of sumo wrestlers. This further adds to the comparison.

The ranchu is considered strong, yet out of shape do to fatness, as are the respected sumo.

Both the sumo and the ranchu represent traditional thoughts on esthetic.

Size, in balance will impose realities of massive circles and squares. This is viewed as a strong attribute of both the ranchu and the sumo as they move with proportional harmony will graceful force.

Bruce first took the record of the longest fancy goldfish on record in 2002.

This fish is not of the variety that will survive the winter ice surface crust if there is not enough oxygen. Some hardy varieties of fancy goldfish will, as well as common and wild varieties. But Oranda is no among them.

In the winter they need to be brought indoors: Although, they can live in an unheated aquarium.

It is important to note that most countries have made the sale of goldfish bowls illegal.

It has been discovered internationally that much like lawn darts, there bowls do more harm than good.

De oxygenation and ammonia nitrate poisoning almost always kills the fish and sends it into the next dimension suffering.

Of course this is a shock to adults and children who most likely viewed the creature as apet. Pets, we all know, are adopted family members.

When bringing and Oranda or any goldfish, or pond fish in for the winter remember that fish bowls are not an option. A tank with a filter is mandatory due to necessity.

Chromatophores are cells in goldfish that produce diverse pigment in different kinds of light. Using different kinds of light some colors of the fish will change. If you leave your oranda or other goldfish in the dark too long they will loose their interesting coloring and turn gray.

If you want grey oranda shaped goldfish that is your receipt. But the gray trait is not often as desired as the diverse coloring.

Oranda have a very interesting head, body, and fins that billow like tails on a kite rolling with the wave of the wind.

This similarity is not surprising since really fish do fly just like kites and birds it the current of water; the substance that they also breathe.

Their bodies look like strength power lifters, bulky round and strong.

The red cap variety look like they have hair on their head. They do not have hair, it just looks like a bowl cut.

Comets as well as all goldfish are descended from one version of the dark gray and brown carp. In all there are 300 varieties with the comet varieties being the most common.

Comet goldfish are part of the family Cyprinid.

A comets shape and often mostly one color of firie red to orange as well as having a single tail define them as a gold fish sub type.

It is said that the original comet variety was bred in the United States in the 1800s.

The fins of this variety of man made mutation are longer than that of the common gold fish. These fins are not the longest of all goldfish varieties that have been bred through mutation practices designed to create show fish of one ideal aesthetic, or another.

Comets tend to be more reddish than the commons that tend to be more orange. Due to this color lean it is easy to see why the more forked tail of the two man made varieties is the strain that produces the sarassa comet configuration.

The origin of the sarassa comet goldfish point of origin variety has more speculation. That means that it is hard to define when this variety and method for arriving at this artistic epiphany was first accomplished.

Comet goldfish come in metallic orange, metallic yellow, metallic red, calico and the a-fore-mentioned sarassa. The Sarassa are noted by there red or white cap mark on otherwise red or white body.

Some experts include calico the make up of the comet variety. This could be due to breeding the calico variety with these other comet varieties. A breeding that results in a variety of calico colored goldfish with the morphology of the comet variety.

Some people feel that the calico varieties were the result of man made mutations off of mutations that have been bred by mankind many generations apart from any comet stock. Or, that they were the result of mankind induced in-breeding that was more selective and complex than is visible in the immediate comet varieties.

As a result of reintroducing into the comet bloodline the strongly breed for calico coloring in other goldfish strains, sought after by man; the calico comet is possible according to some calico breeders.

Pond Comet goldfish are the main source of pond entertainment apart from the common wild variety goldfish.

The big round eyes and billowy tail signify a natural strength. Their ordinary look is eclectic, even eccentric to us.

In a water garden they stand out from the other shapes of gold fish.

These creatures add to the diversity of the water garden pond.

The fact that they only come in this color adds to this diversity. If an enthusiast wants this shape and special personality swimming in their water garden, they will have to be satisfied with the black coloring. Black Moor goldfish only come in black.

This black coloring can be a strong accent among the other vibrant coloring of all the fish in a water garden pond. The long body and minor globed eyes that symmetrically pop out to pepper the mobile goings on in the pond serve as accents.

Like a canvas that is set using textures, many enthusiasts pick and choose traits to decorate the ornateness of the look.

The tails of black moor are billowy. Although they are not as billowy as other gold fish, if the interchangeable heel that has the black moor in it has a tail that imitates this flowing grace, the heel will look even cooler.

The real black moor once upon a time had vein tails, in the English variety. But in the 1930s this mutation fell extinct falling back into contemporary again.

The tails of black moor are diverse still. The butterfly and ribbon variety still proliferate black moor populations world wide.

The opinionated fade is in favor of the double caudel fin with lobes that are forked and rounded; with all the other fins in perfect symmetry. The competitive prejudice states that the dorsal fin should be 1/3^rd to 5/8^th the length of the black moors body.

The black moor eyes telescope to the side. They are not as pronounced as the globed eyes of the globe eye gold fish. The telescoping of the celestial goldfish is angled upward distinguishing the black moor as the black gold fish with eyes that telescope to the sides.

Black moors have a hard time seeing food. If you are going to keep them outdoors, then do so with fish whom also have visual handicaps. This will insure that the food distribution is balanced among all the fish.

With these goldfish and other fancy goldfish such as celestial, and bubble eye choose aquatic plants that do not have abrupt leaf ends. This helps the fish from becoming injured.

These great creatures are the moving independent shadows of water gardens, both outdoor and indoor ponds across America and around the globe.

Unlike the London breed they are not designed to be like common goldfish.

They are also not like the American Shubunkin that is designed to be very much like the comet goldfish.

Traditional Shubunkin were first created as a blood line in Japan of 1900. The creator was Mr. Akiyama.

These Carrasius auratus var (the scientific name) were the result of breeding fancy tail and globe eyes with a wild goldfish. Then selecting for the desired calico.

This would explain the heartiness of an inbred fancy fish. A smart move on the part of the breeder that knows that this type of breeding for abnormalities often produces weak genetically defective fish.

It would seem logical that before breeding for even further oddity through coupling parent fish with offspring fish; when they have the same visual trait that infusing a healthy quotient of genetic material back into the mix helps the mutation come about in a more healthy and humane manner.

For coloration variety in these fish, leaving them outdoors exposed to the sunlight is the best practice.

It has up to this point in history been harder to ship this blood line. So the resulting recreation of the breeding process occurred. This resulted in the American, Bristol, and London Shubunkin offerings.

In China these fish are called Chuwen-Chin. The Hong Kongian English term for these animals is Variegated Swallow Tail.

Goldfish grow to fit the size of the tank they live in.

When they are properly cared for they will mix and mingle with the koi, gambusia affinis, and the lengthy ill fated plecostomus. A single goldfish will out live the temperature sensitive plecostomous generation after generation for many years to come.

There are ten basic varieties of goldfish that are used in water gardens and ponds around America.

These are: comet, shubukin, fantail, black moor, ryukin, oranda, lionhead, rachu, bubble eye, and pearlscale.

The most common of these in the taste of people tends to be the comet variety.

These ten have sub-varieties such as the red and calico variety of the fantail.

Of the varieties that make up the comet species the sarassa tend to pull in the eye of most water garden pet fish collectors.

Goldfish are great an attractive part of water gardens, and ponds as well as the indoor versions that imitate them within the cultured America.

Introducing the painted turtle to the pond means that the pond needs to conform to a certain shape, size and depth.

This also means that the inner structure of the pond or water garden floor must have variations. Painted turtles in the Northeast are most active from May to October but will hibernate during winter. They require a foot or two of mud to survive a harsh northern winter. If you do not have (or want) a natural water garden pond with a mud bottom using an indoor fish tank to keep your painted turtles during winter can be nice. There is nothing more enjoyable than bringing nature in, to keep you conscious of the coming spring when your pond comes back alive!

The plants you will put back in the water garden after the shape of the garden has been changed is important, adult painted turtles eat vegetation so make sure your pond has an adequate amount of plants. You will also have to feed any hatchlings with store bought food if there is not an adequate amount of worms, beetles and other bugs in and around the water feature.

It is important to be sure there is enough vibrant vegetation to satisfy there hunger and numbers.

Turtles are also a bit messy. They leave food particles everywhere, and defecate in water as well.

Create a pipe drain that lets the water out into a rain garden that you construct in a descending way. This will filtrate that excess water back into the water table aqua way below where you live. Purchase the best filtration system for your pond with UV sterilization and particle containment/ removal.

The best time to make this transition to introducing painted and other turtles into your water garden is when you are repotting your plants anyway.

This way doing the landscaping necessary for the turtle readying is not going to disrupt the life of your pre-existing plants.

The back of the water garden needs to be steep: Nearly a sheer drop straight down.

This encourages the turtles to walk out of the pond in one direction when they are eventually introduced.

It is important to note that the plants in your garden will need to be in water pots self contained with the depth of the water garden is slowly increased as the first generation of turtles is introduced into the pond.

The bottom of the water garden needs to have several different levels as well as ledges init. This is so the turtles can rest at different spots under water as the temperature from the sun changes.
The main side of the water garden will need to have a gradual incline out of the water. The slant is for the turtles to able to easily and gradually walk to dry land.

The same barriers used to keep raccoons and other predators away from pond and water gardenfish need to be used to protect the turtles. The added thought that needs to go into this barrier planning is: Turtles also need to be kept in, so that they don’t just walk off.

These animals need a place to dry themselves in the heat of the sun each day and bask. Placing a branch big enough for turtles to climb out of the water In the middle of the pond is agood idea. Once the water garden pond has been gradually refilled, after the first generation of turtles mature, there will be a small island for the turtles to enjoy.

Heaters can be used to warm the water when it is colder outdoors but it is best to have deep enough mud and allow the painted turtles to hibernate. At 60 degrees a painted turtle will stop eating and get ready for winter, let them do what is natural or bring them in before the temps. drop.

Underwater pots are good for turtles since they add ledges at another level for turtles to enjoy.

Having turtles in the water garden is rewarding, and interesting to watch.

Bladderwart actually come in 215 diversely aquatic varieties¹

Ultricularia Vulgaris, the kind found in Europe.

- Swollen Bladderwort, or Ultricularia Inflata

- Ultricularia Minor a plant mostly natural to the Great Lakes and New England area. This plant is commonly referred to as the Lesser Bladderwort.

- Ultricularia Resupinata, is the Reverse Bladderwort. A plant the inspires funny things to laugh about in ones own thought life. This plant is native to the eastern United States. And would be ideal for water gardens in that region.

- The Purpurea, or Purple Bladderwort is an Ultricularia variety that lives waiting for small fish and insects to be trapped by it in the acidic waters in Minnesota including surrounding States and Provinces.

Not unlike the deceased authors hilariously imaginary if universally adolescent exaggeration: These plants do have bladders.

They grow well in water trough planters. Complete Guide to Water Garden Plants By Helen Nash, Steve Stroupe, Perry Slocam, Bob Romar – Sterling Publishing Company, Inc.² And they are sensitive to touch. The fibers on the bladders trap other creatures for digestion.

There are many semi-aquatic varieties such as Fairies Aprons Ultricularia Dichotoma- that live on trickling water rock faces, among other places.

If you’ve ever fancied the idea of being a spy novel nemesis, these lovelies are kind of dark little secret best kept between you and your lovely water garden. Here’s to hoping the neighbors don’t loose a Frisbee in your subtly quiet water garden.

1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bladderwort
2. http://www.sterlingpublishing.com/

Blue-green algae or brown or black, are all forms of cyanobacteria or what both the uninformed and common Joe alike, refer to as slime or smear algae.

Cyanobacteria is carried on the wind, and is natures way of oxygenizing anaerobic conditions in water, especially wherever high levels of organic wastes and nutrients have been dissolved.

As cyanobacteria is a very simple organism, it uses only photosynthesis to reproduce, and will easily inhabit any imaginable aquatic location be it, saltwater, freshwater, rock or even soil.

Some animals also use algae to their benefit either to produce energy or protect themselves in some way, such as a few endosymbiont species in protests, lichens or the sloth for example that grows cyanobacteria in its fur as a kind of camouflage.

Cyanobacteria can be unicellular or colonial and colonies form in three types, filaments, and sheets or hallow balls. Filamentous colonies can be vegetative, akinetes or heterocysts.

Heterocysts are thick-walled and contain enzyme nitrogenase, vital for nitrogen fixation and can fix nitrogen gas that cannot be used by plants, into ammonia (NH3), nitrates (NO2-) or nitrates (NO3-) which can be absorbed by plants and converted into protein and nucleic acids.

So why is such a useful oxygenator as aquarium slime or watergarden slime taken as dangerous or offensive to the delicate artificial environments?

Basically, aesthetics, but if given enough sunlight, algae can takeover, and throw the whole environment out of balance.

In a worse case scenario, some particular species of cyanobacteria can produce neurotoxins, cytotoxins, hepatotoxins and endotoxins, making them dangerous for mammals and other animals, including us humans (not a good idea to drink algae water without testing).

Although our species still has yet to understand cyanobacteria completely (preventing us from accurately assessing risks) according to some sources (see links below) several cases of human poisoning have been documented from either drinking water or recreational pond water.

In the case of aquarium algae, depending on if the aquarium is saltwater or freshwater, usually merely a change of the water or a partial change of the water is in order, but as saltwater aquariums are difficult to clean out, the best things are slime sumps.

Thriving slime slumps can even be a ready solution to freshwater aquarium slime as well as saltwater aquarium slime, but rerouting that kind of water to a biological filter filled with bioballs and other slime forming surfaces, just may not be the kind of energy efficient solution most freshwater aquarists are looking for (unless they have sustainable energy sources like a solar pump).

Watergarden slime is just as necessary as aquarium slime, but in a watergarden, algae is a must, especially when there is a serious lack of oxygenation.

60% of the oxygen produced in ponds is from cyanobacteria alone.

In Asian rice patty fields, where 75% of the worlds population gets its food, healthy nitrogen-fixing cyanobacteria populations keep the balance in paddy waters to produce year after year.

Cyanobacteria is important to keep the whole biological ecosystem thriving in a pond or watergarden as it eliminates bad news gases that plants cannot digest well.

Chemical removal is possible, but will eliminate all bacteria in the water and should be used sparingly, 200mg of erythromycin phosphate per 10 gallons of water should do it, but not recommended before physical scraping and cleansing of all rock, glass, gravel and plastic plant/ornaments have been done, including vacuuming substrate.

Regular cleaning and regular water changes are sure to keep green slime away the best, much better than chemical removal, but once again, in the cases of watergarden slime and saltwater aquarium slime, regular removal is not an option due to the time necessary to balance the aquatic environment, so best to do it correctly only once (before building any delicate environments).

In any closed aquatic environment, cyanobacteria; aquarium slime or watergarden slime is sure to be found, especially if fish and plants are present and the dirtier the water and the more sun, the more green water algae can bloom.

Water garden slime is a natural gas processing organism that breaths life intoNeptunes most sacred sanctums; these temples of underwater splendor.

Related Links:
Cyanobacteria, their toxins and health risks.

Food, water, shelter and sun are the main components of any successful dragonfly water garden. The key is to always go for beauty and balance.

1. Dragonfly Food: Strictly carnivores, dragonflies will eat insects, larvae, tadpoles and even small fish while still nymphs, especially mosquito eggs (one of their favorites). Adult dragonflies on the other hand, can eat some 50 mosquitoes in a day while flying around.
2. Dragonfly Water: Balance, dragonflies demand that the water be healthy and breathable for them, as they need oxygen to breath. Dragonflies spend most of their lives in water as nymphs and it is breathing in water that pushes them forward, while exhaling out the back propels them even faster in that same direction.
3. Dragonfly Shelter: Plants do the job of providing shelter from curious predators outside the pond such as cats and children. Meanwhile, aquatic plants need to have a certain environment to survive readily and in abundance as well, providing perches for mating adults and incubatorsfor dragonfly eggs and maintain the delicate balance of a dragonfly water garden. Plants are used, as incubators by some of the prehistoric species of dragonflies that are endangered, yet still exist. Modern species of dragonflies can lay eggs directly in the water, making their probabilities of survival much better.
4. Dragonfly Sun: The sun is the basis of all life on earth. To dragonflies, the sun means life, energy and survival of their habitat. The sun is life to plants being used as a shelter such as any of the many species of waterlillies that provide shade and impede the super-population of algae through heavy shade. Plants are incubators and landing pads for mating dragonflies, as well as life to the adult dragonflies whom without the suns heat would not be able to fly or hunt. For the purpose charging their batteries to hunt, a nice white flat rock does a great deal for Dragonflies charging their solar cells.

The well-kept dragonfly water garden is a natural mosquito trap as dragonflies are carnivores and rely on smaller insects such as mosquitoes for food.

In nature, open ponds and watersheds all have something in common; balance. A well-balanced dragonfly water garden is rich in gas exchanges between plants and nymphs as well as other inhabitants that might dwell in the pond such as frogs or smaller fish.

Larger fish can prey on nymphs and larvae, therefore, being undesirable in a dragonfly pond, unless they are substantially smaller than the nymphs themselves, in which case they are an ideal food source for the dragonfly.

To get a good balance in nature, a pond usually has a constant intake from the mountains or regular water runoff, from some large rainwater catchments system like a giant field and a major water outlet, like a stream going toward the ocean.

Too much movement is a river and too little is still water, neither ideal for a natural dragonfly habitat, the main reason for healthy water is because, still water pollutes too easily and too much algae will steal all the oxygen in the pond, suffocating the nymphs.

Dragonflies need clean and unpolluted water for their habitats. The pond itself is more of a breeding ground for the adult dragonflies rather than a hunting ground and more of a living space for young nymphs, who have not yet moulted to receive their adult wings and are still aquatic.

Creating the ideal conditions for a dragonfly friendly water garden is actually rather simple.

Make sure the water has a balance of midday sunlight in most spots and a good dose of shade, such as water lilies, to inhibit algae growth. The ideal ratio has been said to be around 70% direct sunlight and 30 percent covered with natural shading like the water lilies.

One of the best places for a dragonfly water gardenis wherever there is a lot of food available for them. Both for the ongoing survival of the dragonfly adults as well as for their nymphs and larvae, water gardens that follow the basic precepts to careful dragonfly habitat creation, should see rewards within the year.

Surrounded by the local breeds of garden plants and insects, especially untouched local vegetations of the region.

Just laying down a hole in the ground on a slope or near a rainwater runoff, just might be one of the best solutions as long as there is still enough attention paid for the hows and whys of pond building.

Fish and bug zappers are both natural predators of dragonflies and nymphs so it is natural that you avoid putting fish in your dragonfly water garden, or zappers nearby.

Deep water plants, semi aquatic and submersed aquatic plants are all welcome to compete with algae for oxygen and nutrients it is all about a sustainable balance that is your freshwater water garden.

Just remember, to dig deep in the center, toss in a pond liner that doesnt leak, lots of plants to hide in and your local dragonflies will find it

A well balanced dragonfly water garden you will surly include food (prey), water (living stage as nymphs, shelter (aquatic plants) and sunlight to recharge their solar batteries in a way that makes you feel good about yourself and those around you.

The concept of a garden based around an artificial pond of water is as ancient as the first dreams of paradise on earth. Gardening in and of itself is the art of growing plants and the crafting of a beautiful environment, inspired by nature. The cultivation of aquatic life and vegetation in an imaginative and artistic way is the passion that drives the water garden enthusiast to sculpt dead landscapes and old tubs into thriving works of living art.

News
Aaron is building a backyard water garden, he will also be documenting his steps and writing about them so you can easily follow his lead in building your own enchanted water garden.

1. Water Garden Plan

2. Water Garden Features

3. (More to come..)

The use of water in the garden can be seen in early tomb paintings from around 3000 BC in Egypt, with rectangular fishponds surrounded by luscious fruit trees on either side. The Romans, Persians, Muslims, Indians, Chinese, Koreans and Japanese are but a few cultures that have used water gardens in historical grandeur. In the west during medieval times, to Renaissance, Baroque, Romanesque until today, the water garden has flourished as the foundation for the dream of paradise on earth.

Not just “around” a pond of water, but “of” a pond of water, that’s what makes the water garden so aesthetically pleasing to the human eye. When thinking about building a water garden the first most important question to ask is: Why am I building this? This may seem odd, but the answer to this question will determine everything about the water garden. The purpose or intention behind the garden; is what determines choice of size, location, plants, fish and/or other aquatic forms of life, and architecture.

Size is always an issue with water gardens, as they never seem to be big enough. The reason for this is that when dealing within the confines of a given aquatic area (the tub or pond), no real expansion can occur without remodeling the original project, and like most garden enthusiasts; those dealing in aquatics get so happy about their first results, that they just want to keep putting more and more elements into this work of living art.

“Where it goes” and “what goes into it” are just as subjective as “why”, since no two water gardens are the same. But usually common ones nowadays use either koi or goldfish (that consume oxygen and are producers of CO2) and anacharis (a kind of waterweed, that consumes CO2 and produces oxygen) as the basic elements of sustainable water gardens. Imagination, research, passion and well planned resources are the real tools to building ones own water garden however and, while planning will determine structure, size, location and aesthetics, the water garden’s final purpose must always be kept clear if it is to be accomplished successfully.

Architecture is the key to an aesthetic water garden. Obviously, koi fish get too big for a fruit bowl or goldfish aquarium; however would be a wonderful addition to a properly sized Japanese water garden, since the point here is not size, the point here is style. Bigger is not necessarily better, in water gardening, taste is. The simple concept of beauty and art are what culminate in the ideal water garden. Beauty is to each and everyone, their own personal concept however and could not fit into the last 2,500 years of western philosophy, much less this article, thus an excellent definition of how water gardens become personal expressions of the gardener themselves.

The water garden brings hope and life when there is nothing but desert, and reminds us of the simple perfection nature has developed when there are only skyscrapers and subways as far as the eye can see. In the oasis, the water garden that flourishes as nothing else for miles upon miles in an ocean of fire and sand is more than a spiritual blessing, to the common traveler, it is survival. While in the towering glass and steel apartments of the urban metropolis, an indoor water garden no larger than a fruit bowl, brings green memories of a place, as yet untouched by the vile pollutant tentacles of humankinds so called progress; rekindling the faint aura of hope, that one day, a better world is possible.

For those who have water gardens or would like to build and care for a backyard pond Fall is a time to reflect. Autumn is also a great time for cleanup, preparation and new construction.

Cleaning up your water garden in preparation for Fall can be an enjoyable, creative task. What I do is remove all the rocks and plants then net and move my fish to a temporary holding tank. After the removal of rocks and plants only water and sediment remains to be sucked up with a pond vacuum. This is also a good time to carefully inspect the liner for tears. It is important to clean your water garden before the water temperature drops below 65 degrees if you have fish. If you are moving your fish to a temporary holding tank also make sure you use water from the water garden to avoid stressing your little friends.

Aquatic plants can be pruned, divided and dropped down to the deepest part of the pond where they will stay until springtime. If your plants are “tropical” remove them completely, they will not survive winter and can increase the nitrogen levels in your pond. Also make sure aquatic plants are deep enough to avoid being frozen solid so if your pond is shallow, consider purchasing a pond heater.

Preparation for Fall is pretty simple, if you live in an area with trees a pond skimmer is often not enough to remove all the leafs that drop into the water. Leaf debris will also quickly fill most pond skimmers and require daily cleanup. Leaf matter breaks down and increases the nitrogen level in your pond which can be hazardous to fish (especially during this time when the outside air temperature is dropping and cooling the water). To stop all leaf and other debris from falling into your water garden stretch netting over it. The best netting for this is the same black plastic netting that you protect garden plants from birds with. If you put a tent pole in the middle of the water garden and stake the netting down on all edges of the pond, leaf and other debris will not collect in the middle of the net and will just slide down the sides to be raked up.

Water gardening is a very personal hobby so if you are the type who likes to “do it yourself” this can be a time of inspiration, creativity and reflection. The cooler days of autumn are a great time for new construction. As with most, we often start out with a simple water garden but quickly dream of a larger pondscape with a waterfall, biofilter, UV sterilization light and new landscaping around it. Autumn is the time to break new ground on ideas you have had that you would like to see implemented before spring. When warm weather returns, your water garden environment will wake up and reward you for your loyal and gentle care.

To start to think about water garden features you must first have an idea of what type of water garden you would like to create.

There are basically three main types of water garden design features:

1. Raised Ponds – The raised pond is a good looking easy to build water garden that can be put together in little time. It does require basic masonry skills to set a footing and stack and secure the concrete blocks or bricks.
2. Sunken Ponds – The sunken pond requires digging large amounts of dirt and either inserting a flexible liner, preformed liner or pouring concrete into its space. You then can add nice patio stone around to compliment its round contours or make it square like an ancient roman bath.
3. Bogs – The bog is a disorganized, irregular shaped cutout in the ground that can be shallow or deep. A bog is built by simply digging out some ground and laying a flexible liner into it held down by sand, plants and rocks. If you enjoy frogs, dragonflies and other wildlife this water garden style is for you. A bog can also be natural without a liner and very little water, used to manage and filter rainwater runoff which is an important environmental feature.

You will also want to consider other additional water garden features to make it special. A water garden without the sound of water to me is not a water garden at all and most people would agree.

There are three popular water garden features that bring sound with them:

1. Cascade – A cascade feature is a series of waterfalls that run down over rocks into small pools before trickling into a main pond. This cascading water adds a gentle sound to the surrounding environment.
2. Waterfall – A waterfall feature is like a cliff with an undercut in its lip, the water rolls out to the end, and then drops off falling into the water garden pond below. A waterfall adds louder water flow sounds that can be softened by adding rocks where it lands.
3. Fountain – A water fountain throws water into the air from a pump and tube below the surface of the water or embedded in a statue usually in the center of a pond.

There are all kinds of other water garden features like bridges, stepping stones, seeping water masks, and anything the creative water garden designer can think of. A great way to bring it all together into you mind is to think about a theme and what features will complete your vision. I have a pile of old wooden whiskey kegs out back and I am in love with the ocean so my first idea was to bring the ocean to the city. I thought of decking like on a dock and a pile of whiskey barrels with pump and filter in them to transfer water below. There would be beach sand and grasses blowing in the wind, these features just all fit into place in my mind but you will have entirely different ideas.

If you are lacking ideas, like I was about what features and theme to do, go to the bookstore and look at a few books on water gardens. In them you will find all kinds of great pictures and examples that will help in this new creative endeavor. Need to put a fence in behind the pond or want to build a concrete retaining wall behind your planned waterfall? There are books and magazines that cover all of this as well. Settling on water garden features is an enjoyable task and will give your plan a more solid footing.

A water garden plan and its final construction, always come from ideas that “only you”, can think of. To begin planning your water garden you need to go to the area where it will be and stand with a clipboard, paper and pencil in hand. Water garden plans should also not be rushed, so if it takes you a few days, or even weeks this is fine, inspiration does not often come quickly, so take your time. I spent over two months thinking, sketching out plans and reading books on the subject.

The idea of making a water garden had been in my head for years. I naturally feel most at home on or near the water and as with most people (who do not have the luxury of living by the sea) the idea of having a water garden is a very attractive one.

Did I mention that you will need a tape measure to properly plan your water garden? No? Sorry, go get one! The basic steps to complete a water garden plan are simple, you can do it all in your head but I find that writing stuff down is better because you can bring it all inside and refer back to it over a few days while your plan grows into a solid idea. Before planning my water garden I also removed all the landscaping that was interfering with my thoughts so if you are one who likes to “paint on a clean canvas” you might want to consider this first.

Let’s begin, stand back and take a deep breath while thinking of what kind of water garden you have been dreaming of. Do you want to dig a deep Koi pond, line it with concrete block and cover it with a flexible liner, or do you simply want to install a small water garden kit that comes with its own plastic tub? Would you like a grand waterfall spilling into a deep pool, or does your kit have a pump and spout that throws water into the air? A Koi pond with a waterfall would surely be a larger scale water garden construction. Is it something you feel you can do yourself, or should you take your finished plan to an expert?

The reason I ask the questions above is to get you thinking. If you are ready, sketch down an idea or two of what kind of water garden you will construct, measure the area, and write all this information down; good for you! If you feel a little overwhelmed, go back inside your home, take your thoughts to bed, and in the morning you will find all kinds of fresh new ideas wanting to be a part of this exciting new project.

Ready to take your next step?

The Japanese Water Garden can be divided in three main time periods. In the Heian period (785-1184), the book Sakuteiki was written as a guide to future Japanese Buddhist water gardeners, describing the ideal paradise on earth. After the Heian period, the simplicity of Zen teachings, to represent nature instead of imitating nature became Japanese garden tendency and slowly cut away large uses of water. But with the revolutionary tea master Sen Rikkyu (1552-1591) the Japanese gardens reintroduced water for the Chado tea ceremony.

The Heian period marks the evolution of water gardens for not only the Japanese but also the world. No other culture, not even the Chinese or Romans had come to such systematic and ordinated rules and methods for water gardening than the aristocrats of this time in Japanese history. The writing of the Sakuteiki simply left a historical record of what the Japanese already knew and had been practicing for centuries. How, water should flow, in what direction, how rocks should be placed, where and why. These factors are still known and taken into account today, as the principles of paradise on earth.

With the demise of the Heian period, Japan fell into a cold, Zen criticism of the world, and this reflected in Japanese Gardening, as the usage of small rock gardens could potentially represent entire mountain ranges. The use of sand in place of water, and rocks instead of trees, or flowers in place of forests, became ways of simplifying meditation and interpretation.

However, with the birth of Chado, the Japanese tea ceremony, San Rikkyu transformed the garden into a path known as “roji” that would help remind the invited guest of the tea ceremony and of what the secret Buddhist teachings and principles behind tea really were, those of “wabi” or a humble state of mind and “sabi” the humble state of being (used in the layout of the garden). By using the tea ceremony as a way to cultivate spirituality both the similitude of Zen gardens and the paradise nature of Sakuteiki, these Japanese water gardens are the most important to Japanese culture. It is said that once upon building a tea house on the ocean front for a samurai lord, Rikkyu cut out the view of the ocean completely; the lord was most displeased, till he reached down to the water basin to wash his face, in which moment his eyes were filled with the image of the ocean and he understood his own connection with the ocean in that moment while purifying his body.

Later, other Japanese gardeners, produced imitations and remakes of legendary gardens from each of these styles, in no way really developing anything particularly revolutionary. The main tendencies in a Japanese water garden today will include certain distinct features that can only be found within these styles. The point, however, to any Japanese water garden is simplicity, clarity of mind and body, and enlightenment.

To achieve enlightenment, some things have been included in modern day Japanese water gardens. Yastu-hatchi eight fold narrow wooden bridges, remind the travelers of the roji, that the path and how we walk it, is far more important than the goal to be reached. Stones, sand and pedestal lanterns thrive as focal points that add the proper perspective whether it be mystical tradition, slow contemplation, or the passage of time. Moss is used in reference to enlightenment and can be found in metaphorical ways to describe poetic notions used in the traditional Japanese water garden.

A water garden waterfall can be the focus point in most water gardens is the continuous flow of running water. The sound of soothing and peaceful falling water brings visions of long lost worlds such as Shangri-la to the mind’s eye. Utopian communities reminiscent of Kropotkin’s “The Conquest of Bread”, with a windmill at the crest of an enchanting waterfall, that gives flourishing life to a mountain village water garden. Even just small chalices with but a few pebbles, moss and bamboo table top water garden waterfalls around its exterior, can calm the enraged urban spirit; stressed and distraught at the incessant onslaught of menacing towers of glass that scrape the very heavens in the same defiance as that of cruel and decadent Babylonian rulers. The cascading structure of any water garden waterfall will be more than just a focus point for human imagination; it will be the flowing veins of the water garden. The pool is the body, with its delicate balance and ecosystem of life. The pump is the heart of the water garden, providing energy to circulate and oxygenate its water, through the constant feed of the waterfall.

The cascading structure of the water garden’s waterfall is usually done in accordance to the needs of the average water gardener. If height is to be achieved, then the waterfall usually needs a very high down-slope above the pool surface. This can be achieved in a number of ways; from building an artificial earthberm in the middle of the front yard with excellent recycled liner, a cascading rock formation from the very roof of a one story house completely waterproofed with polyurethane plastic tarping, or as simple as some minute adobe aqueduct system the size of a fruit bowl that rolls around like some miniature Greek and Roman temple into a round goldfish aquarium bowl filled with anacharis and water lilies. Or even a multiple level cascading system, with waterwheels and Tolkien like elven palaces and hobbit homes at the creeks edges, with dwarven pine trees and bonsais. The actual idea for the waterfall itself needs to be something that really goes with the water garden as a whole, something thematic.

The pool is also very important to the water garden waterfall, as it is the whole basis for why and how the waterfall is built. For example, it would be best that when building a water garden, if the waterfall is to be the main attraction, then less precautions on the garden itself need to be achieved, and more attention given to the pump house and cascading structure, in which case the pool could be just a bucket painted the same color as the wall paintings with some gnomes around it. If however the waterfall is to be a sustainable meditative outdoor retreat concept based on platonic principles of ideal societies, then the pool will need more attention; in such a case the pool becomes an almost essential part of the concept and demands a fragile and subtle balance between organisms living in the water garden. Giving the pool the attention it deserves is vital to a successful water garden waterfall.

The pump is the water garden waterfall heart, as it gives life to the otherwise stale pool of shallow unmoving element. Water that moves in constant flow… is life. Water cannot travel uphill without energy, and a good pump will provide this energy depending on the desired height, size and rush of the garden’s falling water. Water that will fall; first must be up on high, only then can it fall into cascading beauty and tranquil sounds. This makes it necessary to calculate how high, and how fast the water is to fall. If a lot of water is to be pumped to the waterfalls mouth at incredible speeds, then a lot more energy is required than one which only falls about an inch or two from the rim of a crystal goblet with a bluish red Beta swimming in it.

The waterfall in any water garden, can be done big or small, for indoors or outdoors, strictly aesthetic or spiritually energized, as it can also be the expression of an artist’s inner self. All water garden waterfalls need a cascading structure, pool and pump. Those available on the market can make life easier for those ready to build now, while taking the time and patience to detail each and every aspect of the waterfall becomes an endeavor of self discovery for those who just plain like the hobby of doing it themselves. The water garden waterfall is an expression of life that calms the restless mind and inspires the meditative aspects of waking dream, through precious insight derived from the sound of falling water.

Go solar: Read what people are saying about Solar water garden pumps!
A water garden pump that pushes waterfall or fountain water for oxygenation or just plain looks, needs to have constant water flow above the surface of the water. For this reason a properly chosen water garden pump needs to be chosen to send water above its surface. In the days of Pompeii, before 79 AD when a volcano froze this legendary roman city in time, plumbing was used in all parts of the cities life. Displacing water from one place to another requires momentum, and a pump does this in a practical way, through calculations such as head, pressure, flow and voltage, the proper kind of electrical pump can be chosen. Alternative water garden pumps could use diverse creative do it yourself sustainable projects such as solar or aeolic renewable energy sources, a half adapted siphon system using gravity or even as creative as a ram pump system with a rain barrel harvesting concept that uses collected rain water for waterfall energy production, ideas for sustainable water pumps are diverse.

The origin of the word pump is long lost in etymological history, but obviously the sound of the word Pompeii, translated into water pipe, or conduit in Latin. Modern Dutch inventors were thinking of this when they started using the word “pompe”. Historians know little, but the fact that energy efficiency is the key in any water pump has held true for more than 2,000 years, even before the first aqueduct started carrying water from the mountains into Rome. Moving water with gravity has been known since Archimedes’ Principle first stated; “the impulsion force is equal to the weight of volume of liquid displaced by the body.” In this case gravity was the energy moving water downhill… but a water garden needs it to move uphill, hence the use of pump.

Pumps take water from the water garden and push it uphill in the desired fashion, be that in the form of a majestic water fountain or meditative Japanese waterfall. Normally pushing water out of the aquatic environment is done in order to oxygenate it. This helps keep it in equilibrium with itself such as in the case of the submersed air pump at the bottom of a pond that just does the job of blowing bubbles up to the surface as in aquariums. Electrical pumps are chosen based on the head (height) of the desired point above the water’s surface level and flow pressure. Depending on the energy efficiency of the pump being used and the decision of whether it is to be an underwater pump or external pump will reflect in how much power it consumes (also known as voltage). Power consumption on a monthly $$ basis can really undermine a water gardeners hopes for having a cute water garden in the living room. But as buying an electrical water pump is the most common project solution for water gardens of all sizes, from aquarium pump to submersible pond pump, sustainable energy buffs refer back to renewable energy for capping that monthly $$ basis.

Electric solar water garden pumps work just like any grid driven pump, but usually have their very own photovoltaic or photosynthetic solar power panel rigged up in a discrete place on the side of a statue ornament or something even more creative. Aeolic pumps can be driven in the same manner, but usually work directly on a mechanical energy basis, too much energy dispersion seems to go on when dealing with magnets and electrical fields. Ram pumps use a constant flow of water from somewhere to do a similar job as this, and instead of using wind or solar energy, would use rain water reserve from a cistern, perhaps from the roof of the gardeners, house… In very large water gardens, a sustainable pump system might actually integrate all three systems, who knows?

Water garden pumps are used to both oxygenate with flowing air as well as flowing water and create beautiful effects in the garden such as bubbles (air pumps), waterfalls (water pumps) and fountains (water pumps). If the waterfall is very tall and uses a lot of water, then the pump must be stronger, the same goes for the water fountain if it is to have lots of pressure, they can be located subtly underwater, or hidden away in a pump house externally, size will determine this factor mostly. Water garden pumps are essentially mechanical, making them source quite diverse, from household and city grid energy, solar, aeolic, cistern harvesting, to plain old gravity.

The gardens aesthetic appeal can be enhanced with a stand alone outdoor water fountain. The form of the water fountain is as infinite as the human imagination, from a central overriding obelisk like stone, to a delicate fairy statue of tinker-bell beauty. Usually an object of centerpiece status, the water fountain is used in the garden with a variety of different aims. To direct attention through sound, vision, and even feel, depending on where and how it is placed. Throughout history, the water fountain has been used in connection with spiritual enlightenment and states of meditation, as well as expressions of artistic intent.

Amongst the floating lilies and enchanting pond creatures, that can be found in the water garden, there is also, the fountain. The fountain in a water garden is an aesthetically pleasing addition, to the already fantastic realm of imagination that these expressions of art produce. Water garden fountains, not only enhance beauty, as they also delve in both the relaxing sounds of rushing water as well as serve to aerate and cleanse the water. By shooting the water straight up into the air at high velocities, pond water in the garden will be filled with oxygen, and upon return to the surface of the pool, cleaner. If pumped water from the bottom of a pool, even better. As oxygenation helps aerobic bacteria flourish, the amount of algae and weeds in a pond can be kept under control.

The art of moving water in its essence is a subject that has mystified western thought for the last 3,000 years, since the Greeks began to debate the elements in nature. From the womb we find ourselves surrounded by the sounds of water, and all throughout our childhood, the daily bath is a relaxing time dedicated just to us. During the Renaissance, when gardens in the forms of Labyrinths began to enchant the minds of Europe, water fountains could be found in the most diverse styles, reminiscent of the Golden Age. Be they found in the center of the Minotaur Labyrinth or at the very heart of a monastery courtyard, the running sound of water, seems to relax the onlooker.

Water fountains can find their way into the home as well. As a decorative addition to the window garden, or merely a wall piece of modern art, the sound and sight of running water are subtle and delightful. The cool touch of water against the fingertips, reminds us that a garden need not be merely a place of earthen dominance. Water, in combination with the chosen work of art, to be its fountain piece, express something different to the garden experience, something that is subjective and personal.

The shape and size of garden water fountains, is so varied and creative, that the choice of any given fountain is as wide as the architects imagination. In water gardens, the fountain plays not only its traditional role as a centerpiece, but also that of an aerator if desired. While in some traditions, the outdoor water fountain is a source of spiritual enlightenment, in others it has no such concept, but yet still achieves the delighting role of relaxing the garden onlooker.

Water garden design can be an expression of thought or emotion, it can be a fulfilling mental endeavor or hobby for those long country summers, when the heart comes back into balance with nature. A water garden can even be a sublime spiritual retreat in the harsh winter rain of an urban apartment; the key is passionate design. The ancient and brilliant art of design is a mental picture that flows renewed through the human soul inspiring creativity, peace, harmony and love. Planning and delving in the aquatic dream of real life water gardens, is a vicarious experience that encompasses the very reaches of the inner being’s limitations. When first setting eyes, hands, or feet, on or within a water garden for the first time, the intense pathos of experience will entwine itself unto the layers of conscious imagination, breaking down walls, breaking down pain and anguish, transporting the body through time and space into the realm of chosen design.

Imagination is key to a power lurking deep inside every sentient mind. Water garden design must reflect the given sequence of images trapped inside the tempest of human imagination in order to harness this power. Designers, must propel their imaginations into the abstract world of dreams and return as travelers with tales from far away lands, and transport these tales into the enchanting wonder of their water garden. The kingdom of fantasy is as infinite as the child’s imagination; no designer can ever forget that. If so caught up in the hustle and bustle of today’s ration and reason, then that will be the outcome of the water garden. For the secret to catharsis is creating the illusion of ones own experience, being that of the artist’s.

Designing a garden based on such a sacred element as water requires not only the developed enchantment of imagination’s manuscript; but also the patient wisdom of careful and delicate awareness. Making an experience come to life means being practical and pragmatic, for what use are dreams unless they have an application in the material world. Water garden design appeals to well structured plans that are fearless of a decent perspective and a coherent logic. Building ordinate systems of the “ideal” into smaller more attainable goals is what seizes a dream from the god Oneiros of nocturnal slumber and hurls it head first into the possessive concept of material substance. Without steps, the portal to paradise is but an artificial intangible fiction, reminiscent of Baudelaire.

Designing a water garden is at its most opulent moment, when catharsis is finally the utmost expectation of every appreciation conceivable. Being swept away on the wings of experience depends on the conceptualization, layout, aquascape design, preponderance of strategic planning, awareness and feel. If looking at a bowl of rocks with moss and bamboo water fall does something extraordinary to human ration; then the sound, smell, taste and touch of that same ambiance will determine the attainable depths of vicarious perception; that is, the very depth of cathartic experience.

Water garden design needs dynamic imagination, good planning and be humbly built to achieve a cathartic experience. Whether it is Dedalus projecting the inner water fall for the Minotaur’s garden labyrinth, the god/mage Toth designing the first Egyptian oasis, or the Buddhist priest Takuan giving counsel to Shogun Tokugawa on the underlining spiritual values of having running water gardens in Osaka Castle’s meditation room. Design brings idea into form, life to dreams, and true meaning to the water garden.

A water gardening container is almost anything that holds water and is non-toxic. The idea is not only aesthetics, but practicality. The water garden container needs to be of suitable size and shape for the gardeners needs. The outer appearance of the container is also important; however it still needs to be impermeable as well. The ecology of the water garden is also essential, as it is a very delicate and sensitive environment that gets even more so the smaller the container.

Container water gardening can be done with just about anything that holds water. From as large as an old portable swimming pool to a pudding vase; size is as limited as the human imagination and available resources will permit. But shape and size are what determine the initial ecology of the water garden, as it will influence what kind of plants, ornaments, rocks, soil, fish, pumps and filters can or need to be used. If the container is deeper, then deeper water plants like anacharis and lilies can be used, but if not, then perhaps only as much as moss growing on some rocks and a bog plant or two can be used. Bigger is not necessarily better, but certainly can open the variety of ecological choice. When in doubt, bog plants can usually be the most survival ready choices, for smaller containers.

When thinking of the aesthetic nature of the water garden container, material is just as important as shape and size is. Concrete, wood, ceramic, plastic, glass, tub, barrel, pot, bowl, pitcher, mug, cup, vase… etc. any of these materials are fine, but some may need liners, such as in the case of the bamboo basket, woven by hand for example. Liners, as well as containers, must be non-toxic, which means no reused plastic car oil bottles. Polyurethane black plastic can be found sold by the square foot at local department stores, and can take up to 200 years to biodegrade in a landfill, so usually work great. But plastic materials will absorb toxins into them, so no reusing any plastics that have been contaminated, by unfriendly toxic agents that could potentially destroy the careful balance involved in a smaller water garden ecosystem.

Harmony and balance are the keys to water garden containers. If well planned with detailed calculation, and sublime efficiency, almost any water garden concept can become reality. But ecological balance is an art, and for smaller more complex water gardens, the containers, size, shape, and appearance make the foundation for crafting the ideal project. Aquatic gardens are thriving miniature worlds of microorganisms, plants and sometimes even fish. The exchange for oxygen, carbon dioxide, waste and food gets ever more complicated, the smaller and smaller the container, and artificial filtering, oxygenation, carbon dioxide injection, all become more and more essential for the relative survival and growth in such water gardens.

“Size and shape”, “aesthetics and appearance”, “harmony and balance” are the concepts to keep in mind when choosing the water garden container. Size and shape will determine the water garden containers initial limitations. Aesthetics and appearance will give form to strategic design planning and focus choices around the water gardens intentions. Harmony and balance will suggest what kind of ecosystems can and cannot be used, making last choices even easier. In this way choosing the proper container for the water garden, becomes a quick and fulfilling personal experience that either expresses internal emotions or hones the intellect; both though the direct contact with nature itself.

A water garden filter is used to help keep the garden in a kind of balance. Depending on the kind of water gardening being done, the desired effect to be achieved and personal preference, choosing the right water filter can be challenging. Filtering is mainly necessary due to the dangerously high amounts of ammonia that can be produced by bioorganic wastes, such as fish discharges and plant decomposition. Mechanical, chemical and biological filtering systems are the most common ways of keeping the environment in balance. Be it a fish garden, plant garden, or both, the kind of filtering system chosen will directly influence the amount of resources, and time spent on maintenance.

Filter comes from the Modern Latin word “filtrum” first used in 1400 meaning “felt”, a matted animal fiber, used in straining impurities out of liquids. However unlikely the water gardener may be to use felt as a filter in a freshwater aquarium or pond, the general concept still remains the same. Because depending on the kind of garden being planned, the system of filtration will be an important issue. Low impact energy conservationists always tend to get uneasy at the idea of disposable filtration systems, but sometimes, if the garden is so small that it fits into a fruit bowl, then disposable carbon filters are most likely the kind being used. The bigger the system, the easier alternative methods to filtering with chemicals can become.

Water filtering is used not only to keep water clear, but also to keep it healthy and balanced. Certain beneficial microorganisms that flourish in water keep waste levels to a minimum, and process ammonia into nutrients that plants can eat. In the wild, these bacteria naturally eat anything that starts to decompose. This kind of filtering system is usually referred to as biofiltration and can be cultivated externally or internally through a biofilter. Ceramic, rock like reef materials usually work best, but anything that microorganisms can latch onto work fine, and within this area, they flourish in order to process aquatic biodegradables, into helpful nutrients for the plant life.

Aside from the representation of natural breakdown processes, filtration systems also use mechanical methods such as sponge like foam; filter floss, sand, gravel and micron filters. Mechanical filtering materials use a coral reef like effect to capture wastes and larger biological debris that could harm the internal workings of any given filtering system. They usually need to be cleaned once a day or so, or more, depending on the volume of organic breakdown material in the water.

But chemical filters are the most commonly used in aquariums, as they work on a molecular reaction level, breaking down wastes faster by offering activated carbon materials to smaller organic particles that need them for processing. Chemical filters, can help suck up chlorine, bad odor, bad taste, and organic materials that need to be quickly broken down. The most challenging thing about chemical filters however is the price and replacement. Chemical filters are disposable and shouldn’t be washed; otherwise they can actually work against the harmonization of the water ecology. Activated carbon filters are also very expensive and can have diverse uses depending on the quality and material. Thus it’s good to do some research before deciding exactly which kind of chemical filter to buy, be it coconut shell vegetable base carbon, liginite carbon, charcoal, bituminous carbon, or any mixtures of these with wood, bone or any such filtering carbon based materials.

The kind of water garden being used; weather it be fish, reef, plant, tropical, hardy, bog, or any mixture of these may also enjoy CO2 injection along with the filtering and oxygenation system, which all require a pumping process. These factors add to the energy consumption of a water garden, and must be calculated in the prior stages of architecture. Filtering is a way of achieving balance in the artificial aquatic environment and should be looked at in this way in order to fully understand it. A water garden filter will need maintenance and consume energy. The more low tech the system, the more manual labor, the higher tech the system, the more money, but still a lot of manual labor. But everybody who likes playing in their water garden looks forward to this part, so it would almost be unfortunate if filtering wasn’t necessary. Taking care of a water filter is what brings the spark to the enchanting realm of water gardening itself.

Any aquatic plant that can be used in a water garden (note; usually fresh water) is a water garden plant, as well as any plant that may go around the water garden. Water plants need nutrients, sunlight and carbon dioxide (CO2) to survive and flourish. Aquaculture (or the culture of fish) can be used to give water garden plants the nutrients they need, such as ammonium (NH4+) and nitrate (NO3-). There are just four main categories of water plants to be aware of, floaters, underwater, underwater-floaters and bog plants.

Water plants, like any other plant, need nutrients to grow, from the time they are seedlings, to the full adult. Whether the plants receive nutrients indirectly from clayey underwater soil, directly from the water itself or both, they use carbon dioxide and photosynthesis to create energy for development and in turn give off oxygen, as a byproduct. Sunlight in day hours will indeed allow plants to give off oxygen, but in the night hours, they actually consume oxygen. Not all aquatic fresh water plants need lots of sunlight, in fact many rooted underwater plants, are well adapted to anaerobic shady environments and can do well in the deeper regions of ponds and lakes.

Nutrient rich soil and water can be obtained by providing fertilization tablets or drops, that are store bought, but in nature this resource is best obtained from fish waste, as well as CO2. For the fish, this can be very beneficial, as the natural role of most underwater plants is to oxygenate the water, which fish inhale, and consume the carbon dioxide, which fish exhale. Many aquatic plants also serve well the purpose of food for fish, such as When thinking sustainable, it can be difficult if not near impossible, to provide the ideal balance in smaller environments, such as a tub container or even a bowl or aquarium.

In recent years the trend for hydroponic cultivation using a sustainable plant as food for the fish, and the over balance in fish waste as nutrient rich grow medium for the hydroponic plants, has been called aquaponics, as the two systems blend into one word. This kind of water gardening is far closer to the traditional sense of raising food in the garden, however, and less directed to aesthetics. Beauty however, is in the mind’s eye of the gardener, and aquaponic plants are still a part of the water garden, as they cleanse the water, in more sustainable fashion, making changing the water, less necessary, if not virtually unnecessary.

Freshwater, water plants can be divided into four main categories. Those adapted to bogs, floaters, underwater plants, and underwater-floaters. The main difference between each kind of plant is, grow and light medium. For example, both tropical and hardy water lilies, like to grow in a loamy (clayey) soil, in shallow water, so they can float their flower lilies at the surface of the water; these are underwater-floaters, as they do both. Butterfly ferns, a hardy floater that makes a great fish treat, don’t require soil medium and take their nutrients directly from the water, while floating on the surface of the water. Anacharis is the most common kind of store sold underwater plant, and likes deeper regions, loamy soils, and loves to produce oxygen. Bog plants on the other hand, desperately need sunlight, they usually grow around the pond in the loamiest of soils, or in the shallowest regions and they can take the form of shrubs, flowers and even semi-trees.

The water garden plant is a broad area that revolves around the enchanting garden of water. It can be directly a water plant, a bog plant, a vertical aquaponic head of lettuce, even some moss growing on the rocks around a waterfall. If it’s a plant, and it’s in the water garden, then it falls into that category. But mostly they are freshwater plants, and maintain the same concepts of growth and development as all plants do. Water garden plants need nutrients, carbon dioxide and light to survive and live healthy lives.

A water garden pond is one of the most common bases for building a water garden in any relatively larger scale, than a tub. Building a water garden in a pond is an excellent way to give a “closer to the wild in nature” aesthetic look to a garden, while keeping it tame. The water garden pond is home for diverse aquatic elements that co-exist in a give and take habitat. Usually this co-existence is a calculated exchange between plant life, which oxygenates the pond water and more highly developed organisms such as goldfish or koi, that give off carbon dioxide. Of course, in today’s world, some simple precautions such as proper depth and size, liners, pumps and filters should be taken in to account to make sure that the pond is suitable for a water garden.

The water garden pond is a place of exalting aquatic life. Floating plants (both tropical and hardy), oxygenating plants, underwater plants (both tropical and hardy), shallow water plants (both tropical and hardy), Lilies, Bog plants and Lotus are all just some of the diverse types of plants that can be found in a garden pond. Besides plants, water gardens, can contain; fish, frogs, snails, crickets, ducks, swans, turtles, dragonflies, newts, tadpoles, shrew… etc. Basically any kind of pond animal will be attracted to the environment, if large enough and stable.

But what makes the water garden pond different from a pond in nature is not only the aesthetic aspect, but also, the natural sustainable exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide that occurs between plants and animals. Not all ponds will be big enough to sustain this kind of concept, nor do they have to for that matter (with the invent of modern technology), but this aspect is unique with garden ponds, as it is a calculated ratio. Fish need oxygen to survive, thus giving off CO2 and the opposite is true for the majority of plants used in water garden architecture. Many different kinds of floaters offer food for the fish, which in turn leave the water rich in biological material, hence the need for filters, of some kind. Which is why many aquaponic gardeners like to use this system for cleaning the pond water? Otherwise, either a biological or mechanical filter is necessary.

The pond is a fascinating part of our ecosystem, and a wonderful school project. The very biology of the garden pond is enough to spend hours of class time just putting in hard work to get it built. But building a garden pond is not as easy as just digging a hole in the ground, planting seeds and dumping a whole weeks worth of rain water into it. A good garden pond is conceptualized in mind’s eye of the architect, planned thoroughly, excavated more than expected (since once built, that’s it, no more plants get in, remember to over excavate), given different shelves and depths for different kinds of plant and wildlife, lined with protection against ground elements and visa-versa, properly filled with chlorine free water or de-chlorinated and finally given a little tender loving maintenance and care every now and again.

The water garden pond is a wonderfully natural way to do water gardening, both being pleasing to the human eye, as well as keeping that good faith to nature look and feel that a homey garden needs. Aquatic life actually does all the gardening by itself, and become living form of art. This is done by calculating the beneficial exchanges of biological needs that occur naturally in nature. Building a water garden pond is easy and fun, and can be a great project for class or family.